Glycolic Acid — Benefits, How to Use & Top Products in South Africa

Glycolic acid is the most studied AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) in skincare. Derived from sugarcane, it has the smallest molecular size of all AHAs, allowing it to penetrate deeply and deliver dramatic results in skin texture, brightness, and tone.

What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is a water-soluble alpha hydroxy acid that works by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface, accelerating cellular turnover. This reveals fresher, brighter skin underneath while stimulating collagen production in the deeper dermis. It is one of the most clinically proven ingredients in anti-ageing and skin-brightening skincare.

Benefits of glycolic acid

Glycolic acid smooths rough skin texture, fades hyperpigmentation and dark spots, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improves overall skin radiance. It also helps other active ingredients penetrate more effectively by clearing the surface layer of dead cells. With regular use it can significantly even skin tone — making it particularly effective for post-acne marks common across South African skin tones.

How to use glycolic acid

Start with a low concentration (5–8%) used once or twice a week, gradually increasing frequency as your skin builds tolerance. Apply in the evening after cleansing, before serums and moisturiser. Do not use alongside retinol on the same night when starting out. Always use SPF 30+ the following morning — glycolic acid increases sun sensitivity significantly. In South Africa's high UV environment, this is non-negotiable.

Glycolic acid versus other AHAs

Glycolic acid is the strongest and most penetrating AHA. Lactic acid is gentler and better for sensitive or dry skin. Mandelic acid is the gentlest option, ideal for darker skin tones as it carries a lower risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Choose based on your skin's sensitivity level and concern.

Who should be cautious with glycolic acid?

Those with sensitive, reactive, or rosacea-prone skin should start slowly or opt for a gentler AHA. Pregnant women should avoid high-concentration glycolic acid treatments. Always patch test. If stinging, redness, or excessive peeling occurs, reduce frequency.

Top glycolic acid products in South Africa

BeautyOnTApp stocks effective AHA formulas from COSRX, SOME BY MI, and Skin Functional — available online and in all 6 stores. Not sure which exfoliant is right for you? Book a skin analysis (R285) for expert guidance.

Related guides: Salicylic Acid | Vitamin C | Full Ingredient Glossary