New to skincare? Start with what you want help with, then open one ingredient at a time. The source link under each card explains where the guidance comes from.
Good to know.
This guide is general education, not medical advice. Follow the directions on the product and speak to a qualified health professional about pregnancy, prescriptions, allergies, or a skin condition.
RetinolFor clogged pores, dark spots and visible ageingPM
Retinol is an over-the-counter retinoid. It can help unclog pores and reduce the look of fine lines and dark spots. Follow the product directions because irritation can happen.
Pairs well withMoisturiser to help reduce dryness and irritation.
Use with careDo not use during pregnancy. Use daytime sun protection and avoid applying to very dry, red or inflamed skin unless advised by a dermatologist.
Beginner tipStart with the least-intense formula every other night, then build up slowly.
Salicylic AcidA BHA exfoliant used in products for clogged pores
Salicylic acid is a keratolytic ingredient, which means it helps loosen and remove outer skin cells. Strength and directions matter, so follow the label.
Use with careDo not use on irritated, infected or reddened skin. Keep away from eyes and other sensitive areas.
Beginner tipUse only as directed — never more often, more heavily or longer than the label says.
Glycolic AcidAn AHA exfoliant used to smooth the skin surfacePM
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid used for chemical exfoliation. Exfoliating products can irritate skin when overused, so follow the formula's directions.
Pairs well withVitamin C or retinoid products on alternate applications.
Use with careUse sunscreen, protective clothing and limit sun exposure while using an AHA and for one week afterwards.
CollagenA structural protein; topical and oral products are not the same
Collagen is a major structural protein in skin. DermNet notes that evidence differs by form, with oral collagen hydrolysates typically showing better results than large collagen molecules and topical formulas.
Use with careDo not treat topical and oral collagen products as interchangeable; the evidence differs by form.
Beginner tipFirst check whether the product is topical or ingestible before interpreting its claim.
DermNet lists topical glutathione among agents used in melasma care. Evidence, strength and directions vary by formula, so it should not be described as a guaranteed result.
Pairs well withYear-round broad-spectrum sun protection when used in a pigmentation routine.
Beginner tipKeep sun protection as the foundation; glutathione is only one topical option listed for melasma.
DermNet lists kojic acid among topical agents used in melasma care. Follow the directions for the exact product rather than assuming every formula has the same strength.
Pairs well withYear-round broad-spectrum sun protection when used in a pigmentation routine.
Beginner tipKeep sun protection as the foundation; kojic acid is only one topical option listed for melasma.
Tranexamic AcidUsed in some approaches to stubborn pigmentation and melasma
Tranexamic acid is used in melasma treatment, but topical and oral forms are not interchangeable. Oral treatment requires qualified medical guidance.
Pairs well withYear-round broad-spectrum sun protection when used in a pigmentation routine.
Use with careDo not use oral tranexamic acid for pigmentation without medical assessment; it has important contraindications and possible clotting risks.
Beginner tipConfirm the product is topical; evidence for topical tranexamic acid remains under investigation.
Centella AsiaticaA botanical extract used in some soothing and moisturising formulas
Clinical research has tested specific Centella asiatica formulas, including a topical emollient for dry skin. Results are tied to the studied formula and population, so every cica product should not be assumed to work the same way.
Beginner tipRead the complete formula: cica is one ingredient within a finished product.
Snail MucinSnail secretion filtrate used in hydrating skincare
A small controlled study tested one snail-derived regimen for skin barrier, roughness and firmness. The results were formula-specific and do not prove that every snail mucin product gives the same result.
Beginner tipCompare the complete formula, not only the snail percentage or ingredient name.
CeramidesSkin lipids commonly used in moisturisers for dry skin
The American Academy of Dermatology recommends looking for ceramides in moisturisers when skin is dry. The complete formula still matters, especially if your skin is sensitive to fragrance.
Beginner tipApply moisturiser after washing while skin is still damp to help trap water.
TurmericA botanical ingredient with limited evidence for skin conditions
The U.S. National Center for Complementary and Integrative Health says there is not enough evidence to reach definitive conclusions about turmeric or curcumin for health purposes.
Use with careTopical curcumin can cause hives or itching.
Beginner tipTreat turmeric as one part of the full formula, not a guaranteed result.
Shea ButterA plant-derived emollient used in moisturising formulas
Small studies have tested complete moisturisers containing shea butter or shea butter extract. Because several ingredients were used together, the result cannot be assigned to shea butter alone.
Beginner tipJudge the finished moisturiser or hair product, not one ingredient in isolation.
GinsengA botanical extract studied in a small topical skin trial
A small study tested one enzyme-modified Panax ginseng cream for facial roughness and photo-ageing. That evidence is specific to the studied extract and cream, not every ginseng product.
Beginner tipCheck which ginseng extract and complete formula the product uses.
PeptidesShort amino-acid chains whose effects depend on the exact peptide
Clinical studies usually test a named peptide in a specific formula. Results from palmitoyl pentapeptide, for example, should not be treated as proof that every product labelled peptides works the same way.
Beginner tipLook for the exact peptide name and judge the complete formula.
SqualaneAn emollient used in moisturising formulas
Published reviews describe squalane and its related compound squalene as emollient and skin-hydrating ingredients. The performance of a finished serum or moisturiser still depends on its full formula.
Beginner tipChoose the finished texture that suits your skin rather than judging by the ingredient name alone.
BakuchiolA botanical ingredient compared with retinol in one small trial
One 12-week study compared specific 0.5% bakuchiol and retinol formulas. Both changed measured wrinkles and pigmentation, while the retinol group reported more scaling and stinging. This does not make every bakuchiol formula equivalent to retinol.
Beginner tipRead the strength and directions for the exact formula.
Azelaic AcidA topical ingredient used in some acne and rosacea treatments
The American Academy of Dermatology lists azelaic acid among topical treatments that can help acne-like rosacea breakouts and long-lasting colour. The correct diagnosis and formula matter.
Use with carePersistent redness or acne-like bumps may need professional diagnosis before self-treatment.
Beginner tipFollow the product directions and introduce one new active at a time.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration lists lactic acid among common alpha hydroxy acids. AHA exfoliation depends on the acid, concentration, pH and the rest of the formula.
Use with careAHAs may increase sun sensitivity. Use sunscreen, wear protective clothing and limit sun exposure while using the product and for one week afterwards.
Beginner tipFollow the label and do not assume two AHA formulas have the same strength.
Argan OilA plant oil used in skin and hair formulas; human evidence is narrow
One small human study examined topical argan oil and skin elasticity in postmenopausal women. That narrow result should not be treated as proof for every skin or hair product containing argan oil.
Beginner tipChoose the finished skin or hair formula for your concern.
Mandelic AcidAn exfoliating acid studied in professional peel formulas
A clinical trial compared a 45% mandelic acid peel with a 30% salicylic acid peel for mild-to-moderate acne. Those professional-strength results do not tell you how a lower-strength daily wash should be used.
Use with careDo not copy professional peel timing or strength at home. Follow the directions for your exact product.
Beginner tipStart with the product label; rinse-off and leave-on formulas are not interchangeable.
Alpha-ArbutinA cosmetic ingredient assessed for use at defined concentrations
The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety concluded that alpha-arbutin is safe up to 2% in face creams and 0.5% in body lotions, including combined use at those levels. This is a safety assessment, not a promise of results.
Use with careDo not assume that more is better; follow the concentration and directions of the finished product.
Beginner tipCheck whether the label says alpha-arbutin or beta-arbutin because their assessments differ.
A TIAM bestseller loved worldwide for brightens and evens out dull, uneven skin, leaving it clear and firm. Formulated with 10% Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) (Vitamin B3), a stable ingredient resistant to light and heat, it visibly brightens dull skin and is suitable for both morning and night use.
This is the holly grail. Been using it for two years. Don’t use it daily cos it’s strong and I use it at night. I use Paulas Choice exfoliator, the one in a grey bottle cos it’s great for dark skin and then follow it up with this serum. 3/4 times a week and my skin looks and feels like a baby’s bum. Acne marks are a thing of a past and I had terrible skin.
N
Nokukhanya Zulu
I’m noticing that my skin is clear and the dark
I’m noticing that my skin is clear and the dark mark on my neck is not visible at all
L
Lerato
Really great for my dark spots and night time routine
Really great for my dark spots and night time routine.
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